YDS
YDS (Yosemite Decimal System) is the standard way of rating how difficult climbing routes are in North America. It's like a universal grading system that helps climbers and guides understand the challenge level of a climb. Think of it as similar to rating ski slopes as green, blue, or black, but much more detailed. The system starts at 5.0 (very easy) and goes up to 5.15 (extremely difficult), helping employers understand a guide's technical climbing abilities and what level of routes they can safely lead clients on.
Examples in Resumes
Led client groups on routes up to YDS 5.10
Instructed beginner climbing courses on YDS 5.4-5.7 terrain
Safety managed multi-pitch climbs rated YDS 5.8
Typical job title: "Mountain Guides"
Also try searching for:
Where to Find Mountain Guides
Professional Organizations
Job Boards
Online Communities
Example Interview Questions
Senior Level Questions
Q: How do you assess whether a client is ready for a YDS 5.9 climb?
Expected Answer: An experienced guide should explain their client assessment process, including evaluating physical ability, mental readiness, and previous climbing experience. They should discuss how they match client abilities to appropriate YDS grades for safety.
Q: How do you manage risk when guiding clients on routes at their limit?
Expected Answer: Should demonstrate understanding of risk management strategies, including proper route selection based on YDS grades, weather considerations, and having backup plans for clients who might struggle with the difficulty.
Mid Level Questions
Q: What factors influence your choice of routes within different YDS grades for different clients?
Expected Answer: Should explain how they consider client experience, physical fitness, weather conditions, and route characteristics when selecting appropriate YDS-graded climbs.
Q: How do you explain the YDS system to new clients?
Expected Answer: Should demonstrate ability to communicate technical grading concepts in simple terms, using relatable examples and clear explanations of what different grades mean for the client.
Junior Level Questions
Q: What's the difference between a YDS 5.6 and 5.9 climb?
Expected Answer: Should be able to explain the basic differences in difficulty, terrain features, and skill requirements between different YDS grades in simple terms.
Q: What YDS grades are you comfortable guiding clients on?
Expected Answer: Should honestly assess their current guiding abilities and demonstrate understanding of working within their skill level for client safety.
Experience Level Indicators
Junior (0-2 years)
- Comfortable leading clients on YDS 5.0-5.7 routes
- Basic route assessment and grading understanding
- Fundamental safety systems knowledge
- Basic client communication skills
Mid (2-5 years)
- Confident guiding on YDS 5.8-5.10 routes
- Advanced route selection and assessment
- Strong risk management abilities
- Effective client coaching techniques
Senior (5+ years)
- Expert level climbing ability (YDS 5.11+)
- Complex route and client assessment
- Advanced risk management strategies
- Training and mentoring other guides
Red Flags to Watch For
- Unable to explain YDS grades clearly
- Overestimating personal climbing abilities
- Poor understanding of matching client abilities to route difficulties
- Lack of proper safety certification
- No formal guide training or certification
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